Cape Cod Capelet

Just stopping in with a quick post this morning to tell you all about the newest pattern from Itch to Stitch*

I remember back when I was a little girl - maybe grade two or three - Mom knit me a poncho. It was a variegated yarn, but the predominant colour was pink and I LOVED that poncho.  I wore it for years!  When Kennis posted the call for testers for her Cape Cod Capelet, I was reminded of my poncho of long ago and while this isn't anything like that poncho, I had a feeling I would love it just as much.

It's that time of year where I can't decide if I'm chilly or too warm, so sweaters are a bit too much right now, and while the "Librarian Dress Code" dictates that a cardigan must be worn, sometimes it gets a bit dull day after day.  I jest... A cardigan does not necessarily need to be worn, but must be within reach at all times. (Actually I'm just kidding.  There's no secret librarian dress code despite the fact that I'm sure my students think otherwise with my constant rotation of cardigans. LOL )

So let's mix it up a bit and throw in the Cape Cod Capelet!  I made mine out of snuggly rib sweater knit fabric that I got locally at the fabric shop in town and I want to live in it! I did tone it down a bit from my 1970's poncho and went with a pretty basic neutral grey that I can wear with anything. It's the perfect thing to throw on to ward off the chill.

It's such an easy pattern too!  Only four pattern pieces - front, back, sleeve and collar. And it whips up quick as can be.  It has a high low curved hemline, raglan sleeves, and a loose "floppy" collar - mine is a bit less floppy due to the nature of my thicker sweater knit.  I don't think it took more than an hour to sew up so it's got instant gratification, sew it up in the evening and where it out the next morning potential written all over it.  You can choose from so many different fabrics for this one.  I even saw a stretch lace version pop up!!  Wouldn't it be glamorous for the holidays in lace over a shimmery cami and a pencil skirt or skinny pants... hmmmmmm.  Filing that idea away in my mental filing cabinet for future pondering!

Best part about the capelet is it was the kick in the pants I needed to finally figure out how to use the cover stitch option on my Singer Serger/Cover Stitch machine.  I've only had the machine for three years now. When I first got the machine I'd tried out the cover stitch but clearly hadn't threaded it correctly.   To be honest the machine is a bit of a beast to thread and some of the places thread needs to go are very hard to get at or even see.  And the instruction manual is about as clear as mud, so I got frustrated, then I got intimidated and then I gave up.  However, the Cape Cod Capelet has a curved hem and I hate sewing curved hems with the heat of a thousand burning suns.  Which is a problem, because I love wearing curved hems.  Such a struggle.

So I sat down on Sunday afternoon, grabbed the manual for my machine, screwed up my patience (and courage) and figured the damn thing out.  It took a few test runs, but once I had it figured out I was off to the races.  A cover stitch is magical on a curved hem. I'm willing to bet it's pretty great for regular hems too! LOL.   I want to cover stitch all the things now.

I really recommend this pattern if you want a quick fun project to add to your wardrobe!  You can grab the Cape Cod Capelet on sale this week over at the Itch to Stitch site.

Isidro

So, after taking a bit of a break from pattern testing I dove back in recently and I'm happy to report that during my hiatus nothing has changed with Itch to Stitch* designing and pattern drafting.  It's still the same amazing quality as always, with the same careful attention paid to every detail!  I'm always so impressed every time I sew an Itch to Stitch pattern.

This time around I tested the Isidro top, which is releasing today, and I'm telling you that this is a top you will definitely want need in your wardrobe all summer long and can tell you one of the testers, who lives in the Southern hemisphere, and I were just chatting in our Facebook group about how Isidro layered with a cozy Aveiro cardi would be perfect for getting you through the colder months as well!

Let's get down to all the important details!  Isidro is a simple little knit top that features gentle gathers at the centre front of the neckline.  It can be a sleeveless top finished with bands along the armscye or you can add sweet gathered butterfly sleeves.  I love the practical layering potential and perfect for warm weather sleeveless version, but I also love the feminine touch the gathered butterfly sleeve too which feels like a dressed up version of a comfy summer t-shirt!  The best part of the butterfly sleeve is that the inside of the armscye also uses the same bands as the sleeveless version giving it such a polished finish.

My first version was made from a random clearance purchase - pretty sure it was from Marshall's Northwest, but maybe from Fabricland - it's of unknown fibre content, and quite thin but despite it's thinness it has a bit of structure too it.

The pattern was so quick to sew up - which in my books is always a bonus when I'm busy going in a million different directions at once.  While it's nice to be able to sew something a little more involved when I have the chance, there is something definitely satisfying about an instant gratification project that can be sewn in a fairly short chunk of quiet time!  As per usual too, the fit was pretty much spot on for me.  My standard 1 1/2" added length to accommodate that 10" waist length I possess and a bit of blending sizes at the hip and I was good to go!

My second version is made from a tri-blend jersey I picked up from the "affordable knits" section of The Fabric Snob several months ago likely on sale as well (I'm nothing if not thrifty! LOL)

The fabric is very soft, and has a lovely drape to it, which made it perfect for the butterfly sleeves I thought!  I can't seem to get enough of fluttery sleeves these days.  They really are my favourite!

I have so many more versions I want to make because I really think this will be a wardrobe staple for me!  If you want to get your copy of Isidro while it's on sale for the release week, head on over to the Itch to Stitch site!  It's 20% at the moment and I think you'll find you're just as happy with it as I am!  I highly recommend it!

The Jessi Hoodie

Ages ago - I feel like maybe as far back as late fall - one of the sewing groups I belong to on Facebook was hosting a sew along for the Jessi Hoodie by CoEmi.  I snapped up the pattern, bought the paper needed to print it off (It's a European pattern so required A4 - I made do with 8 1/2 x 14 " to accommodate the extra length needed and it worked just fine), printed and then assembled it all in short order.  Then proceeded to have zero time to sit down and trace the pattern out, add seam allowances and cut fabric out, let alone sew it up.  So it sat in a big pile on top of my desk until the beginning of March.

I've seen this pattern everywhere on Facebook for months now. It seems like ALL the custom fabric group sewists are especially crazy about it.  I really liked the look of it and thought it would be perfect for work, so I finally dragged my roll of tracing paper out and set to the business of tracing and adding seam allowances to all the bits and bobs.  It really wasn't an onerous task and now that it's done and I'm so happy with how it turned out I wonder why on earth I waited so long, other than time was, as always, at a premium.

I decided that my peached herringbone jersey from Blended Thread Fabrics would be great for the main fabric and instead of buying a co-ordinate for the rest, I decided to make do by utilizing as much of the charcoal Fabric Snob jersey from my ill fated New Horizons Vermont cardi that I'd made earlier in the year. (You never saw that one.  It was a complete fit disaster on me.  I don't know why I strayed from my beloved Blackwood Cardi in the first place).  So the cowl contrast was cut from the back of the cardi, the front side panels from the cardi fronts.  I cut the cuffs off and used them as is, and did the same with the cardi bottom band, so cuffs and band weren't exactly as the pattern measures, but did the trick nicely. I was pleased that the only "waste" left over from the cardi was the front bands which were so bizarrely stretched out of shape they were garbage anyway, and the sleeves, which I'll save for contrast on something for the little boys.

I have really loved wearing this top and reach for it so very often on cooler days, so I thought I'd make another version.  This time I used a panel from the custom print company, Midnight Mountain Fabrics which is located in the city. Being from the flat as flat can be prairies, I've always been drawn to the mountains. Some might even call it obsessed with them. I love their majesty, ruggedness and beauty, so I couldn't resist the panel when the pre-order went up a few months ago.  I combined it again with a jersey solid from The Fabric Snob.  This time since I was starting out from scratch I used the pattern pieces for the cuffs and measurements for the bottom band.  I like the bottom band's width, but the cuffs feel just a bit too long and too snug for my liking.  I'd probably like just an extra quarter of an inch width and a 1/4 of an inch shorter for my personal preference.  I'm not sure if it's the difference in fabric, or if I totally used the wrong seam allowance (How on earth do you do that when you're the one that added the seam allowance in the first place...The mind.  It boggles sometimes! LOL), but this one turned out really relaxed and verging on baggy.  I've taken it in some on the side seams and will wait until it's gone through the wash a couple of times in case it shrinks then I may leave it in it's still "relaxed fit" state, or may take it in more - I just feel that the minute I take it in, is the minute that it's going to shrink like a beast in the wash and I'm going to be living in a world of so much regret.  So for the time being it stays as is.

I used the "BIG Jessi" pattern. (Wow!  Not sure how I feel about the naming of the pattern - thanks for pointing out the obvious there CoEmi, because we larger ladies might not realize we're bigger than your regular pattern size range already.  But whatever.  Slight annoyance aside, I wasn't going to let myself be put off by that.  Maybe it's a translation thing.  I don't know.) As for the nitty gritty pattern details, the fit is pretty good (if you follow your seam allowance choice you made...), and it's a nice flattering design.  It has one heck of a huge cowl - if you feel the need to hide your head in a shell like a turtle, this is your pattern. LOL!

Or if you'd rather, there's a nice big hood option as well. You also have options to put in pockets (I didn't bother) and if you're a nursing mama, the pattern tells you how to add hidden zippers along the princess seam lines to make it breastfeeding friendly. Certainly not a feature I'd need anymore, but might be quite handy for others.  I like that you can mix and match fabrics and that it's a perfect way to use those fun custom print panels that are all over the internet that I seem to be acquiring but haven't previously had a hot clue what to do with.

I'm am pretty much delighted with both my versions and am currently pondering if I should make a third version, but this time with french terry and just a regular jewel neckline instead of hood or cowl.  Although, the weather has been glorious, so maybe I should just turn my thoughts to spring sewing instead... we shall see!

Paprika Patterns Zircon

What seems like forever ago, Lisa of Paprika Patterns generously sent me a copy of their Zircon Sweater/Dress pattern to review.  I was really excited to get a chance to sew it up because the design details really intrigued me.  Then life happened.  And then Christmas happened.  And then more life happened.  And now here it is, the first day of spring, and I'm reviewing a top that I had initially planned as perfect for cozying up in through the long cold winter months.  Oh well.  Depending on your own fabric choices you could easily make this one for whatever season you wanted! So, lets get on with my better late than never review of this versatile pattern from Paprika Patterns!

Zircon, as I mentioned, has a some really neat design details. The geometric shaped yoke and insets look really challenging to sew, but in actual fact are no where near as bad as it would seem. It does take time to achieve nice crisp corners, but if you take that time and go slowly its well worth the effort!  Lisa walks you through it pretty thoroughly in the pattern instructions but if you're still hesitant or struggling, she has a tutorial up on the Paprika Patterns site as well which will guide you through.

Other than the yokes and insets - spoiler alert: the insets for the top are super easy especially since you'll be so practiced on the yokes by the time you do it.  It took me a few minutes and I didn't even use pins at all and they came out pretty darn good if I do say so myself! - the rest of the sewing is very easy to do.

Fit wise I have absolutely no complaints.  I chose a size seven based on my measurements (and previous Paprika Patterns designs) and only added a bit of length to the body for personal preference.  Zircon comes in the usual vast range of sizes for Paprika Patterns - sizes 1-10 or a finished bust of 35" all the way to 50 1/2" and I found it to be right in line with the sizing of the other Paprika Patterns garments I've sewn in the past.  I do really love it when I can trust that a new pattern by a favourite designer is going to give me the same great fit I've come to expect from their previous designs and Lisa does a fantastic job of delivering on this.  I've not been disappointed yet.

For me the biggest challenge of Zircon is fabric choice.  One of my delays was my initial choice of fabric.  As soon as I laid out my pattern pieces on my fabric I realized what a poor choice I'd made.  I was on the fast track to resembling none other than an ill fated Star Trek "red shirt".  Thank goodness I realized it before putting scissors to fabric!  I quickly realized that my next choice was still pretty Star Trek-ish although at least I'd likely live to see another day, unlike the red shirts.  Don't get me wrong.  I am a Star Trek fan to a certain degree, but that does not mean I want to go through life looking like a Star Fleet wannabe.  So, back to the drawing board.  I eventually settled on using a somewhat texturized looking knit for the body and it's plain reverse side for the yoke and inset detail.  I'm not crazy about the fabric, but it's definitely better than my previous plans!

My only slightly negative thought, (and it has nothing to do with the pattern quality at all) is that the neckline feels a touch too high for me.  I've been mulling over this since finishing my top (ok - really I finished it just before lunch and it's only 2pm now, so it's not been a lot of mulling) and I feel that the high feeling neckline is just me and my preferences.  I generally sew/wear tops with a lower scoop or v neck as I find they feel a bit more comfortable and flattering on me, but I'm going to give it some more time to see if it grows on me before I change it up at all. I didn't worry about finishing the edge of the neckline at all, so if I do decide to change it down the road, I won't have to fight with removing serging.

I actually only serged the hem and the sleeves (and of course once I make a decision about the neckline I'll finish it off with some serging too).  The rest of the pattern was easier to just leave the seam allowances as is so as not to add any bulk on the corners.  The stable knit I chose doesn't curl at all at the edges and of course being a knit, it won't fray either, so I wasn't worried about finishing them off.  I just notched all the corners before pressing to get them to lay flat and smooth.  (holy cat hair, Batman!  Fluffy the very annoying feline sewing assistant was sitting on my fabric while I was working on it and it shows.  I guess he felt it the comfiest spot in which to chew on the thread as it passed by.  Damnable cat.  He thinks thread makes the best kitty dental floss ever.  Especially if it's moving through the machine at the time. Aggghhh.  Anyways.  Apologies for the frightening amount of fur in the photo!)

All in all, I give the Zircon Sweater/Dress pattern a two thumbs up and highly recommend it! It'll be a great addition to any wardrobe and depending on fabric choices can take you from season to season.  I feel it could easily be dressed up or down too, depending on the fabric from downright comfy weekend sweatshirt to something much classier and going out or office appropriate.  So a big thank you to Lisa for sending me the pattern!

*Just a quick reminder that although I did receive the pattern for free all opinions expressed here are my own, so you can feel confident that if you choose to sew up your own Zircon you'll really be getting your money's worth with this pattern.

A Trio of Tees

Happy Thanksgiving to all my fellow Canadians!  I hope you're enjoying your weekend!  We had some glorious weather for Saturday and Sunday - it was a whopping 25C yesterday!!!  What a difference a few hours makes though.  The inclement weather rolled in after supper last night and it seems set on staying the day today.  It's raining cats and dogs and the wind so strong that I'm not entirely sure we won't actually end up in the Land of Oz at some point!

So it seems like a good time to sit down with a cup of tea and tell you about a new favourite pattern!  A few months ago I snagged Kennis Wong's Itch to Stitch* Idyllwild Tee and Dress pattern on sale.  I kept meaning to make it - I'd already printed out and taped together the PDF pattern, traced off my size and was just waiting for the right moment and fabric to sew up a new tee.  WHY DID I WAIT SO LONG?!?!?!

I finally sewed my first tee up at the beginning of Selfish Sewing Week (that ran from Sept. 28th - Oct. 3rd) and have positively been living it it since.  I absolutely love it! As a side note to all the moms and dads that see me five days a week during school drop off and pick up I promise I washed it in between wearings.  Really, I did!

However, since laundry and I are definitely not BFFs and I generally subscribe to the theory of sew something new in order to prolong the necessity of doing laundry, it only made sense that when I was in the city running errands the other day I picked up another couple of lengths of knits to make a couple more tees.  Given the knits I got were on sale,  I figured I couldn't go wrong!

I've done the longer/lower neckline and 3/4 sleeve option for all of mine so far as I was in dire need of new shirts for fall.  But rest assured there will be more variations on this top to come as seasons change.  I'm picturing the addition of a rainbow of sleeveless, short sleeve and cap sleeve tees into my wardrobe next spring.  Idyllwild comes with enough options that the pattern offers the possibility of 42 combinations.  This pattern whips up really quickly and I do so love a good tried and true pattern in my arsenal!

Little Man usually takes pictures for me if I don't want to use the timer on my camera, but this morning after taking a few pictures of my just finished third top, he said he'd rather be in a picture with me than taking pictures.  I'd rather that too, so we took a selfie instead.

Before I leave off I thought I'd mention that if you hurry over to the Itch to Stitch site, she's got a birthday sale on right now with discounts from 20 - 40% off depending on how many patterns you purchase. You'll see all the codes and details there at the top of her shop page.  She's also got a contest running too for a few more days.